Embark on a sewing journey with “How to Make and Attach Bias Tape,” a comprehensive guide designed to elevate your finishing techniques. This exploration promises to unveil the secrets behind creating and expertly applying bias tape, transforming ordinary edges into polished, professional details. Prepare to be inspired as we delve into the versatility and beauty this essential sewing element brings to any project.
This guide meticulously covers everything from understanding the fundamental concepts of bias tape, including its types and benefits, to detailed step-by-step instructions for both making and attaching it. We will explore various methods, from machine stitching to hand-sewing, and discuss special applications for curves, corners, and decorative uses, ensuring you gain the skills to achieve impeccable results on any fabric or shape.
Understanding Bias Tape
Bias tape is a versatile sewing notion that plays a crucial role in achieving professional and durable finishes on fabric edges. At its core, bias tape is a strip of fabric cut on the bias, meaning it’s cut at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge of the fabric. This diagonal cut grants the fabric strip a significant amount of stretch and drape, making it exceptionally adaptable to curves and corners.The fundamental concept of bias tape lies in its ability to provide a clean, enclosed, and often decorative edge finish to various sewing projects.
It’s a staple for garment construction, quilting, and home decor, offering a polished alternative to simple turned-under hems or serged edges. Its inherent stretch allows it to lie smoothly without puckering, even on curved seams, which is a common challenge when working with straight-grain fabric strips.
Benefits of Using Bias Tape for Finishing Edges
Using bias tape for edge finishing offers a multitude of advantages that elevate the quality and longevity of sewing projects. Its adaptability and inherent properties contribute to both aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.
- Professional Appearance: Bias tape creates a neat, consistent, and often colorful edge that significantly enhances the visual appeal of a finished garment or item.
- Durability: By enclosing the raw edge of the fabric, bias tape prevents fraying and wear, thereby increasing the lifespan of the sewn item.
- Flexibility on Curves: The diagonal cut of the fabric strip allows it to conform smoothly to curved edges, preventing pulling or distortion that can occur with straight-grain binding.
- Decorative Element: Bias tape comes in a vast array of colors, patterns, and fabrics, allowing it to be used as a design feature to add contrast or complement the main fabric.
- Reinforcement: In certain applications, bias tape can provide additional strength to edges that experience stress, such as necklines or armholes.
Common Fabrics for Bias Tape and Their Properties
The choice of fabric for bias tape can significantly influence its drape, durability, and suitability for different projects. Understanding the properties of these common fabrics will help in selecting the best option for your specific needs.
Cotton and Cotton Blends
Cotton is the most popular fabric for bias tape due to its versatility and ease of use.
- Properties: Cotton is breathable, stable, and relatively easy to press. It holds a crease well, which is beneficial for creating crisp folds. Cotton blends, which may include polyester, offer enhanced wrinkle resistance and durability.
- Best for: Quilting, apparel, home decor, and general sewing projects. It’s particularly good for projects that require a structured finish.
Silk and Silk Blends
Silk offers a luxurious feel and beautiful drape, making it ideal for high-end projects.
- Properties: Silk is lightweight, has a subtle sheen, and drapes beautifully. It can be slippery to work with, requiring careful handling and pressing. Silk blends may incorporate other fibers to improve stability and ease of care.
- Best for: High-fashion apparel, lingerie, and delicate garments where a soft, flowing finish is desired.
Linen and Linen Blends
Linen provides a natural texture and a slightly more rustic appearance.
- Properties: Linen is breathable and strong, with a characteristic slubby texture. It wrinkles easily but can create a very appealing, organic look. Linen blends can offer improved wrinkle resistance.
- Best for: Summer apparel, home decor items like curtains or table runners, and projects where a natural, textured finish is desired.
Synthetics (Polyester, Rayon)
Synthetic fabrics offer specific performance characteristics.
- Properties: Polyester bias tape is durable, wrinkle-resistant, and colorfast. Rayon offers a silky feel and good drape, often used as a more affordable alternative to silk.
- Best for: Apparel that requires easy care and durability, as well as projects where specific sheen or drape is needed. Pre-packaged bias tape is often made from polyester or polyester blends.
Single-Fold Versus Double-Fold Bias Tape
The distinction between single-fold and double-fold bias tape lies in their construction and application, each offering unique advantages for different sewing scenarios.
Single-Fold Bias Tape
Single-fold bias tape is essentially a single strip of fabric folded in half lengthwise.
- Construction: It is a single layer of fabric folded in half, with raw edges enclosed within the fold.
- Application: This type is typically used for finishing edges where the binding will be attached to one side of the fabric, such as on quilt edges or the raw edges of a lining. It is also ideal for decorative edge finishes where the bias tape is applied to the right side of the fabric and then turned to the wrong side and topstitched.
- Advantages: It uses less fabric and is quicker to apply than double-fold bias tape. It can also create a lighter, less bulky finish.
Double-Fold Bias Tape
Double-fold bias tape is constructed by folding the fabric strip twice, creating a more substantial and finished edge.
- Construction: The fabric strip is folded in half lengthwise, and then the raw edges are folded inward again to meet the center fold. This results in a strip that is approximately one-quarter of its original width.
- Application: This is the most common type for finishing garment edges like necklines, armholes, and hems. It provides a neat, fully enclosed finish on both sides of the fabric. It can be applied by sewing it to the right side of the fabric and then folding it over to the wrong side to be secured, or by sandwiching the fabric edge between the two folds.
- Advantages: It offers a very clean and professional finish, completely enclosing the raw edge and providing a smooth, durable binding. It is also more forgiving for beginners.
The key difference in application is that single-fold bias tape typically requires an additional topstitching step on the back to secure it fully, while double-fold bias tape often encases the fabric edge completely within its folds during the initial application.
Preparing Your Fabric for Bias Tape
Understanding how to prepare your fabric is a crucial step in successfully making and attaching bias tape. This process ensures that your bias tape will be flexible, stretch beautifully around curves, and lie flat against your project. Proper preparation minimizes frustration and leads to a professional-looking finish.This section will guide you through the essential steps of preparing your fabric, from cutting on the bias to creating a continuous strip of bias tape.
Cutting Fabric on the Bias
Cutting fabric on the bias means cutting at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge of the fabric. This angle is what gives bias tape its characteristic stretch and drape. When you cut on the bias, the diagonal threads of the fabric are more pliable and can easily conform to curved edges, making it ideal for bindings, facings, and decorative elements.Here’s a step-by-step guide to cutting fabric on the bias:
- Lay your fabric flat on a cutting mat or a large, clear surface. Ensure it is smooth and free of wrinkles.
- Identify the selvage edges of your fabric. These are the finished, tightly woven edges that run parallel to the grain of the fabric.
- Fold your fabric diagonally, bringing one selvage edge to meet the other. The fold you create will be the bias line. Alternatively, you can use a large ruler and a rotary cutter to mark and cut a 45-degree line from one corner to the opposite corner.
- Once the bias line is established, you can begin cutting your strips. For bias tape, you’ll typically cut strips that are 1.5 to 2 inches wide, depending on your desired finished width. Use a ruler and rotary cutter or sharp scissors to cut parallel strips along this bias line.
Creating Continuous Bias Tape from a Fabric Square
To efficiently create bias tape, especially for larger projects, it’s common to make a continuous strip from a square of fabric. This method minimizes waste and allows you to create a single, long piece of bias tape without multiple seams.The process involves cutting a square and then strategically cutting and rejoining it to form a long, diagonal strip.Here’s how to create continuous bias tape:
- Start with a square piece of fabric. The size of the square will determine the length of your continuous bias tape. For example, a 20-inch square can yield approximately 90 inches of bias tape.
- Fold the square in half diagonally to create a triangle. Press the fold to create a crease.
- Open the fabric. You will see the diagonal crease.
- Now, fold the fabric again, but this time bring one corner to the opposite corner, creating a new triangle. This fold should be perpendicular to the first fold.
- Align the two raw edges of the fabric along the bias. This is where you will cut your first strip.
- Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut a strip of your desired width (e.g., 2 inches) along the aligned raw edges. Continue cutting strips parallel to this first cut, moving across the fabric. You will be cutting through multiple layers of fabric.
- Once all strips are cut, you will have a series of parallel strips of bias tape, but they will be offset.
- To join them, lay the strips out in a staggered fashion, aligning the cut edges. You will essentially be creating a diagonal seam to connect the ends.
- Sew the strips together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.
- After sewing, you will have one long, continuous strip of bias tape.
Joining Bias Tape Strips
When the length of a single bias tape strip isn’t enough for your project, you’ll need to join multiple strips together. The key to a neat finish is to join them on the straight grain (or as close to it as possible) and to press the seams open.There are a couple of effective methods for joining bias tape strips:
- Diagonal Seam Method: This is the most common and recommended method for joining bias tape, especially when creating continuous bias tape from a square. It involves offsetting the ends of two strips and sewing them together diagonally. This creates a seam that lies flatter and is less bulky than a straight seam. When preparing your continuous bias tape from a square, this diagonal joining is inherent in the process.
- Butt Seam Method (for pre-made strips): If you have pre-cut bias tape strips that you need to join, you can butt the ends together and sew a narrow seam allowance along the edge. However, this method can create a more visible and potentially bulky seam. It’s generally better to use the diagonal seam method whenever possible.
To achieve a neat join using the diagonal seam method:
- Lay the two bias tape strips right sides together, offsetting one end of each strip so that the raw edges form a diagonal line.
- Sew along this diagonal line with a small seam allowance (typically 1/4 inch).
- Trim the excess fabric from the seam, leaving a small seam allowance.
- Press the seam open. This will help the bias tape lie flat when applied to your project.
Visual Description of a Properly Cut Bias Tape Strip
A properly cut bias tape strip is characterized by its diagonal orientation relative to the fabric’s grain. Imagine a rectangular strip of fabric. If the long edges of this strip run parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric), it’s cut on the grain. If the long edges run perpendicular to the selvage, it’s cut on the cross-grain.However, a bias tape strip is cut at a 45-degree angle to both the grain and the cross-grain.
This means that if you were to draw a line along the long edge of the bias tape strip, that line would form a 45-degree angle with the original selvage edge of the fabric.Visually, a bias tape strip appears as a long, narrow rectangle. The key distinguishing feature is its orientation within the larger fabric piece from which it was cut.
If you were to hold up a single strip of bias tape, you would notice that it has a slight stretch and flexibility, particularly when you try to gently pull it in opposite directions along its length. This inherent stretch is what makes it so effective for binding curves and corners. The edges of the strip should be clean and straight, with no fraying, ensuring a smooth application.
Making Single-Fold Bias Tape

Now that you understand the importance of bias tape and have prepared your fabric, it’s time to delve into the process of creating single-fold bias tape. This method is straightforward and results in a versatile binding that can be used in numerous sewing projects. The key to successful single-fold bias tape lies in precise folding and pressing, ensuring a clean and professional finish.This section will guide you through the steps of transforming your bias-cut fabric strips into neat single-fold bias tape, focusing on achieving consistent width and a perfectly straight edge.
Folding and Pressing Single-Fold Bias Tape
The core of making single-fold bias tape involves accurately folding and pressing the fabric strip. This creates a neat, finished edge that will be applied to your project. The goal is to have one raw edge and one folded edge, with the fold encompassing the raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric.Follow these steps for a successful fold and press:
- Begin with your bias-cut fabric strip. Ensure it is pressed flat and free of wrinkles.
- Imagine a line running down the center of your strip. You will be folding the edges in towards this imaginary center line.
- Take one long raw edge of the fabric strip and fold it inwards so that it just meets the imaginary center line. Press this fold firmly with your iron.
- Repeat this process with the other long raw edge, folding it inwards to meet the same imaginary center line. Press this fold firmly as well.
- Once both raw edges are folded towards the center and pressed, you will have a strip where the raw edges are now enclosed within the folds, and the strip is effectively halved in width.
- Finally, fold the entire strip in half lengthwise, along the original center line. The raw edges should now be perfectly aligned on the inside of this final fold. Press this final fold very well.
The result should be a strip of fabric that is half the original width, with all raw edges neatly tucked away inside the fold.
Achieving Consistent Fold Width
Maintaining a consistent fold width is crucial for professional-looking bias tape. Inconsistency can lead to puckering or uneven application when you attach it to your project. Several techniques can help you achieve this uniformity.To ensure your folds are consistently spaced and pressed:
- Use a Bias Tape Maker: For the most consistent results, especially when making large quantities, a bias tape maker is an invaluable tool. These devices are designed to fold the fabric automatically as you pull it through. You simply feed the raw edge of your bias-cut strip into the narrow end of the tool, and it emerges with perfectly folded edges, ready for pressing.
- Marking the Center Line: If you don’t have a bias tape maker, you can mark the center line on your fabric strip before folding. Use a fabric marker or a chalk line to draw a faint line down the exact middle of the strip. This provides a visual guide for where your raw edges should meet.
- Consistent Ironing Pressure: Apply even pressure with your iron throughout the pressing process. Avoid pressing too hard in one spot and too lightly in another.
- Working in Sections: Press in manageable sections rather than trying to press the entire length of the strip at once. This allows for more control and accuracy.
- Using a Clapper: A tailor’s clapper can be helpful after pressing. While the fabric is still hot, press the clapper onto the fold. This helps to set the crease more firmly and achieve sharper, more consistent folds.
Practice is key, and with each strip you make, you will develop a better feel for achieving perfectly even folds.
Creating a Perfectly Straight Edge
The straightness of your single-fold bias tape is as important as its width. A wobbly or uneven edge will translate into a less than ideal finish on your garment or project. Ensuring a straight edge primarily involves accurate cutting and careful pressing.Here’s how to achieve a perfectly straight edge:
- Accurate Fabric Cutting: The foundation of a straight edge is laid during the initial cutting of your fabric strips. Ensure your fabric is properly squared and that your rotary cutter or scissors are sharp. Use a quilting ruler to guide your cuts precisely along the bias grain. Any deviation here will be magnified in the finished tape.
- Trimming Excess Fabric: After folding and pressing the single-fold bias tape, you will have a final folded edge and two raw edges on the inside. When you are ready to attach the tape, you will typically trim one of these raw edges to create a clean seam allowance. This trimming should be done with precision.
- Using a Rotary Cutter and Ruler for Trimming: The most effective way to trim the raw edge for attachment is to use a rotary cutter and a quilting ruler. Lay your folded bias tape flat, ensuring the folded edge is smooth. Align the ruler along the raw edge, leaving the desired seam allowance (e.g., 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch), and make a clean, straight cut with the rotary cutter.
- Pressing After Trimming: After trimming, it’s often beneficial to give the bias tape one final press to ensure the trimmed edge is crisp and ready for application.
The goal is to have a single, perfectly straight raw edge that aligns smoothly with the edge of your fabric when you begin the attachment process.
Appearance of Finished Single-Fold Bias Tape
Finished single-fold bias tape has a distinct appearance that makes it easily recognizable. It is characterized by its neat, folded structure, designed for efficient application.The finished single-fold bias tape presents as:
- A long, narrow strip of fabric.
- One side features a perfectly folded edge, creating a smooth, unbroken line.
- The opposite side will have a single raw edge, which is the edge that will be sewn to the project first.
- The raw edges of the fabric are enclosed within the folds, hidden from view on the finished project.
- The overall appearance is tidy and uniform, with a consistent width from end to end.
This clean and simple construction allows the bias tape to lie smoothly against the fabric and create a professional-looking finish when applied.
Making Double-Fold Bias Tape

Now that you understand the fundamentals and have prepared your fabric, we’ll delve into the creation of double-fold bias tape. This method involves folding the fabric strip in half and then in half again, creating a neat, self-enclosed edge perfect for finishing seams, armholes, and necklines. Achieving a professional look with double-fold bias tape relies on precision in folding and pressing.Double-fold bias tape offers a clean, finished edge that is both durable and attractive.
Unlike single-fold bias tape, it has a folded edge on both sides, encasing the raw edges of your fabric within its folds. This makes it ideal for projects where a polished finish is paramount.
Folding and Pressing Double-Fold Bias Tape
The process of creating double-fold bias tape involves carefully folding and pressing the fabric strip to create the desired structure. Accuracy at each step ensures a consistent and professional result.The key to crisp folds and sharp edges lies in consistent pressing. Ensure your iron is set to the appropriate temperature for your fabric type and that you are using a pressing cloth if necessary to protect delicate materials.Follow these steps to create neat and professional double-fold bias tape:
- Start with your bias strip already cut to the desired width (typically 1 to 2 inches, depending on the project requirements and seam allowance).
- Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press a center crease along the entire length of the strip. This initial fold provides a guideline for the subsequent folds.
- Open the strip back up. Now, fold each raw edge in towards the center crease you just made, so that the raw edges meet precisely at the center line. Press these folds firmly.
- Finally, fold the entire strip in half along the original center crease, encasing the previously folded raw edges within. The folded edges should now align perfectly, creating a uniform strip with raw edges hidden inside. Press this final fold very well.
Importance of Accurate Measurements for Double-Fold Bias Tape
The success of double-fold bias tape hinges on precise measurements. Incorrectly measured strips will lead to uneven folds, gaping edges, or a tape that is too wide or too narrow for its intended purpose.When calculating the width of your bias strip for double-fold tape, remember that the final width will be approximately one-quarter of the original strip’s width. For example, if you desire a finished double-fold bias tape that is 1/2 inch wide, you will need to cut your bias strip approximately 2 inches wide (1/2 inch for the initial fold, 1/2 inch for each side to fold to the center, and then another 1/2 inch for the final fold).
Always account for the seam allowance you intend to use when attaching the bias tape to your project.
The formula for determining the initial cut width of your bias strip for double-fold bias tape is: (Desired finished width x 4) + (Seam allowance for attachment, if any). For instance, if you want a 1/2 inch finished bias tape and will be sewing it with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, you would cut your strip (1/2 x 4) + 1/4 = 2 1/4 inches wide.
Techniques for Achieving Crisp Folds and Sharp Edges
Achieving crisp folds and sharp edges is crucial for a professional finish. This involves careful pressing and the use of appropriate tools.To ensure your folds are sharp and your edges are defined:
- Use a hot iron. The heat helps to set the folds in the fabric, creating crisp lines.
- Press each fold thoroughly. Don’t rush the pressing process. Go over each fold multiple times if necessary to ensure it is well-defined.
- Employ a tailor’s ham or sleeve board for curved areas if you are working with a bias strip that needs to be shaped. These tools help maintain the integrity of the bias weave while pressing.
- Consider using a bias tape maker. These handy tools automatically fold and press your fabric strips, ensuring consistent width and sharp folds with minimal effort. They are particularly useful for making large quantities of bias tape.
- For extra sharp edges, especially on woven fabrics, you can lightly starch the fabric strip before cutting and pressing.
Organizing the Steps for Creating a Neat and Professional Double-Fold Bias Tape
A systematic approach ensures that each step is executed correctly, leading to a consistently neat and professional final product. Proper organization of the creation process minimizes errors and enhances the overall quality of your bias tape.The following organized steps provide a clear roadmap for producing high-quality double-fold bias tape:
- Fabric Preparation: Ensure your fabric is pre-washed, dried, and pressed to remove any wrinkles or shrinkage.
- Cutting the Bias Strip: Cut your fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the selvage) to the calculated width, ensuring the edges are straight and parallel.
- Initial Center Crease: Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press a firm center crease.
- Folding to the Center: Unfold the strip and fold each raw edge towards the center crease, pressing each fold firmly.
- Final Fold and Press: Fold the strip in half along the original center crease, enclosing the raw edges, and press very firmly.
- Inspection: Visually inspect the finished tape for evenness, crispness of folds, and absence of fraying edges. Make any necessary minor adjustments with your iron.
Attaching Bias Tape: Machine Method (Raw Edge)
Attaching bias tape to a raw edge using a sewing machine offers a clean and professional finish, particularly for garments and accessories where a neat edge is desired. This method involves carefully aligning the bias tape and stitching it in place to enclose the raw fabric edge. It’s a versatile technique that can be used on various fabric types and projects.This section will guide you through the process of attaching bias tape to a raw edge with your sewing machine, ensuring a durable and attractive result.
We will cover the preparation of the fabric, the stitching process, trimming, and the final topstitching.
Preparing the Fabric Edge for Raw Edge Attachment
Before beginning to attach the bias tape, it’s crucial to prepare your fabric edge properly. This ensures that the bias tape will lie flat and evenly, creating a polished look. A well-prepared edge also makes the stitching process smoother and less prone to puckering.The initial steps involve ensuring the fabric edge is clean and straight.
- Trim the Raw Edge: If your fabric edge is uneven or has been cut roughly, use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and ruler to trim it to a clean, straight line. This uniformity is essential for a consistent seam allowance with the bias tape.
- Press the Fabric Edge: Lightly press the raw edge of your fabric. This can help to stabilize the edge and make it easier to align with the bias tape.
Pinning and Stitching the Bias Tape to the Raw Edge
Once your fabric edge is prepared, you can begin the process of pinning and stitching the bias tape. This step is where the bias tape is secured to the fabric, forming the initial seam. Accurate pinning is key to achieving a neat and even attachment.The process involves aligning the bias tape and securing it with pins before stitching.
- Align the Bias Tape: Lay your fabric flat, right side up. Take your single-fold or double-fold bias tape and align its raw edge with the raw edge of your fabric. The right side of the bias tape should be against the right side of your fabric. For single-fold bias tape, the fold will be facing away from the fabric edge. For double-fold bias tape, the wider fold will be facing away from the fabric edge.
- Match Raw Edges: Ensure that the raw edges of the bias tape and the fabric are perfectly aligned.
- Pin in Place: Begin pinning the bias tape to the fabric, starting at one point and working your way around the entire edge. Place pins perpendicular to the edge, about every 2-3 inches, to hold the bias tape securely. For curves, you may need to place pins closer together to ensure the bias tape lies smoothly without pleating.
- Stitch the Bias Tape: Using your sewing machine, stitch the bias tape to the fabric along the fold line of the bias tape. For single-fold bias tape, stitch along the edge that is flush with the fabric’s raw edge. For double-fold bias tape, stitch along the folded edge that is closest to the fabric’s raw edge. Aim to stitch at a consistent distance from the edge, typically about 1/4 inch (6mm), which is often indicated by the wider part of the bias tape’s fold.
“Stitching directly on the fold line of the bias tape ensures that the tape will fully enclose the raw edge when turned.”
Trimming Excess Seam Allowance
After stitching the bias tape to the fabric, there will be excess fabric and bias tape that needs to be trimmed to prepare for the next step. This trimming is essential for reducing bulk and allowing the bias tape to lay flat when turned.Proper trimming prevents bulk and ensures a smooth finish.
- Trim the Fabric Seam Allowance: Carefully trim the excess fabric seam allowance that extends beyond the stitching line. You want to leave a consistent seam allowance, typically about 1/4 inch (6mm), beyond your stitch line. This ensures that when you turn the bias tape, there is enough fabric for the bias tape to fully enclose the raw edge without being too bulky.
- Trim the Bias Tape (if necessary): If your bias tape extends significantly beyond the fabric edge after stitching, you may also trim a small amount of the bias tape itself to create a neat join, especially at the beginning and end of your application. Be careful not to trim too much, as you need enough tape to fold over.
Turning and Topstitching Raw Edge Bias Tape
The final stage of attaching bias tape to a raw edge involves turning the tape to the other side of the fabric and topstitching it in place. This step encloses the raw edge completely and creates a decorative and secure finish.This process involves folding the bias tape and securing it with a topstitch.
- Turn the Bias Tape: Turn the fabric to the wrong side. You will see the bias tape folded over the raw edge. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric, encasing it completely. The folded edge of the bias tape should meet or slightly overlap the stitching line on the wrong side of the fabric. Smooth the bias tape down so it lies flat against the fabric.
- Pin the Turned Bias Tape: Pin the bias tape in place on the wrong side of the fabric. Ensure the bias tape lies flat and smooth, without any puckering or twisting. You can pin from the right side of the fabric, ensuring your pins go through all layers, or from the wrong side, securing the folded edge of the bias tape.
- Topstitch: From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along the edge of the bias tape, close to the folded edge. This stitch will catch the folded edge of the bias tape on the wrong side, securing it firmly. Aim for a stitch line that is approximately 1/8 inch (2-3mm) from the edge of the bias tape.
Visual Description of Stitch Placement for Secure Raw Edge Attachment
The placement of your stitches is critical for a secure and aesthetically pleasing raw edge bias tape finish. The goal is to have your topstitching visible on the right side of the fabric, while the stitching on the wrong side secures both the bias tape and the fabric’s raw edge.Imagine the bias tape wrapped around the raw edge of your fabric.
- Right Side: On the right side of your fabric, you will see a neat line of stitching running parallel to the edge of the bias tape. This topstitch should be placed very close to the inner folded edge of the bias tape, typically about 1/8 inch (2-3mm) away from it. This ensures that the stitch catches the folded edge on the underside.
- Wrong Side: When you turn the fabric to the wrong side, the raw edge of your fabric should be completely enclosed within the bias tape. The stitching you performed on the right side will have caught the folded edge of the bias tape on the wrong side. Ideally, this stitching should be very close to the original seam line where you first attached the bias tape to the fabric, effectively stitching through all layers of the bias tape and the fabric’s raw edge.
This creates a strong and clean finish, preventing the raw edge from fraying or showing through.
Attaching Bias Tape: Machine Method (Folded Edge)

Attaching bias tape with a folded edge offers a beautifully finished look, especially for garments and projects where a clean, professional appearance is desired. This method fully encloses the raw edge of your fabric, providing both durability and a refined aesthetic. Unlike the raw edge method, the folded edge technique requires a bit more precision to ensure the tape lies smoothly and the stitching catches both sides of the tape neatly.This section will guide you through the process of machine-stitching folded edge bias tape, focusing on achieving a flawless finish.
We will cover the essential steps, from initial alignment to the final stitch, ensuring your bias tape application is both attractive and secure.
Aligning Folded Edge Bias Tape
Accurate alignment is paramount when attaching folded edge bias tape. This ensures that the raw edge of your fabric is perfectly encased within the bias tape, leading to a professional and durable finish. Proper placement prevents puckering and unevenness, which can detract from the overall appearance of your project.To begin, open one of the folded edges of your bias tape.
Align this open edge with the raw edge of your fabric, ensuring the right sides of both the fabric and the bias tape are facing each other. The fold of the bias tape should be facing outwards, away from the fabric. Pin the bias tape in place, starting at a point where you will eventually begin and end your stitching, often at a seam or a less visible area.
Continue pinning along the entire edge, easing the bias tape around curves without stretching it. For sharp corners, you will need to create mitered corners, which involves folding the bias tape at a 45-degree angle to form a neat diagonal seam.
Creating a Clean Finish with Folded Edge Bias Tape
Achieving a clean finish when enclosing the raw edge with folded bias tape involves careful stitching and pressing. The goal is to have the folded edge of the bias tape neatly meet or overlap at the end, and for the stitching on the front to be consistently placed.After pinning the bias tape in place on the right side of your fabric, you will sew along the edge where the bias tape meets the fabric.
Stitch through all layers, following the crease of the bias tape as closely as possible, typically about 1/8 inch from the raw edge. This initial stitching secures the bias tape to the front of your fabric. Once stitched, press the bias tape away from the seam allowance, then press it to the wrong side of the fabric. This step helps to set the tape and prepare it for the final stitching.
Stitch Tension for Smooth Attachment
The correct stitch tension is crucial for a smooth and professional attachment of folded edge bias tape. If your tension is too tight, it can cause the fabric or the bias tape to pucker, creating an uneven and unattractive finish. Conversely, if the tension is too loose, the stitches may not hold securely, and they might be visible and unsightly on the right side of the fabric.It is advisable to test your stitch tension on a scrap piece of fabric with a similar number of layers to your project before you begin stitching the bias tape.
A balanced tension will allow the stitches to lie flat and neatly on both sides of the fabric, creating a secure and aesthetically pleasing bond. Most sewing machines have adjustable tension settings, and you may need to make minor adjustments to achieve the desired result.
Organizing Steps for Machine-Stitching Folded Edge Bias Tape
To ensure a neat and successful outcome when machine-stitching folded edge bias tape, follow these organized steps. This methodical approach will help you achieve a professional finish that enhances the overall quality of your sewing project.
- Prepare the Bias Tape: If you are using pre-packaged bias tape, ensure it is the double-fold variety. If you are making your own, you have already created the double-fold tape in a previous step.
- Attach to Fabric: With the right sides of the fabric and bias tape together, align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin securely.
- First Stitching: Sew along the folded edge of the bias tape, approximately 1/8 inch from the raw edge. This stitch will be on the right side of your fabric.
- Pressing: Press the bias tape away from the seam allowance, and then press it to the wrong side of the fabric. This helps to enclose the raw edge of the fabric.
- Topstitching: Turn the fabric to the right side. You will see the folded edge of the bias tape neatly covering the raw edge. Topstitch along the inner folded edge of the bias tape, close to the edge. Aim to catch the edge of the bias tape on the wrong side in this stitching.
- Finishing Corners: For mitered corners, carefully fold the bias tape at a 45-degree angle to create a neat diagonal seam. For square corners, you can either fold the bias tape back on itself to create a sharp corner or simply continue the bias tape around the corner, pressing a pleat if necessary.
- Securing the End: At the beginning and end of your bias tape application, neatly tuck the raw end of the bias tape under itself before stitching to create a clean finish.
Attaching Bias Tape: Hand-Sewing Method
While machine sewing offers speed and efficiency, hand-sewing bias tape provides a level of control and a delicate finish that is often desirable for certain projects. This method is particularly well-suited for garments made from fine fabrics, intricate designs, or when a truly invisible hem is the goal. The gentle nature of hand stitching also minimizes the risk of stretching or distorting delicate materials, ensuring a polished and professional outcome.The process of preparing bias tape for hand application is largely the same as for machine sewing, with a slight emphasis on ensuring a neat and precise fold.
Whether you’ve made single-fold or double-fold bias tape, the key is to have it pre-pressed and ready to be applied. For hand-sewing, it’s often beneficial to lightly press the bias tape onto the fabric edge before you begin stitching, which helps to hold it in place and guides your needle.
Hand Stitches for Secure Bias Tape Attachment
Several hand stitches can be employed to attach bias tape securely and aesthetically. The choice of stitch often depends on the desired appearance and the strength required. For a strong yet discreet finish, the slip stitch or the blind stitch are excellent options. These stitches involve taking small bites of the fabric behind the folded edge of the bias tape, making them nearly invisible from the right side of the fabric.
A simple running stitch can also be used, especially if a decorative effect is desired or if the bias tape is being applied to the wrong side of the fabric.
Creating an Invisible Stitch
Achieving an invisible stitch when hand-sewing bias tape is a hallmark of fine craftsmanship. This technique relies on precision and patience. Begin by folding the bias tape over the raw edge of your fabric and securing it with pins. Thread your needle with a single strand of thread that closely matches the color of your bias tape or fabric.
- Start your stitch from within the fold of the bias tape to hide the knot.
- Take a very small stitch (about 1/16 to 1/8 inch) into the folded edge of the bias tape.
- Then, carefully pick up just one or two threads of the main fabric directly beneath the bias tape. Ensure these stitches are extremely small and do not pierce through to the right side of the fabric.
- Continue alternating between taking a tiny stitch in the bias tape fold and a tiny stitch in the fabric, keeping the stitches evenly spaced.
- As you work, gently pull the thread to snug the stitches, but avoid pulling too tightly, which can cause puckering.
- Periodically check the right side of your work to ensure the stitches remain invisible.
Achieving a Professional Hand-Stitched Finish
A professional hand-stitched bias tape finish is characterized by its neatness, evenness, and invisibility. To achieve this, meticulous preparation and careful execution are paramount.
- Ensure your bias tape is accurately cut and perfectly pressed. Any imperfections in the preparation will be magnified in the final hand-stitched result.
- When applying the bias tape, use a moderate amount of ease. Avoid stretching the tape, as this can lead to a wavy edge.
- Secure the bias tape with pins or tailor’s chalk to hold it firmly in place before you begin stitching.
- Use a fine needle and good quality thread that complements your fabric and bias tape. A single strand of thread is often best for an invisible finish.
- Maintain consistent stitch length and tension throughout the process. This uniformity is crucial for a polished appearance.
- Work in good lighting to ensure you can accurately pick up threads and avoid errors.
- Press your work gently as you go. A light press after completing a section can help set the stitches and ensure a smooth finish.
The result of careful hand-sewing is a bias tape finish that looks as if it has grown organically from the fabric, offering a durable and elegant edge treatment that enhances the overall quality of your handmade item.
Special Applications and Techniques

Bias tape is a versatile tool that extends far beyond simple edge finishing. Its inherent stretch and ability to conform make it ideal for navigating curves and creating polished details. This section explores advanced applications, from beautifully finished corners to decorative accents and solutions for challenging shapes.Working with bias tape on curved edges requires a gentle touch and careful manipulation.
The diagonal grain of the bias tape allows it to stretch and curve smoothly around both convex and concave shapes.
Applying Bias Tape to Curved Edges
Applying bias tape to curved edges, whether they are outward-facing (convex) or inward-facing (concave), involves allowing the bias tape to ease into the curve. For convex curves, gently ease the bias tape around the curve, ensuring it lies flat without puckering. For concave curves, you may need to make small snips into the seam allowance of the bias tape, about every 1-2 inches, stopping just short of the stitching line.
These snips allow the tape to lay flat and conform to the inward curve without pulling.When attaching bias tape to a curved edge, it is often helpful to baste it in place first. This allows you to adjust the tape and ensure a smooth, even application before machine stitching. For machine attachment, stitch close to the inner edge of the bias tape.
Mitering Corners with Bias Tape
Mitering corners with bias tape creates a neat, diagonal fold that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, commonly seen on tablecloths, placemats, and garment hems. This technique requires precise folding and stitching to achieve a crisp, professional finish.There are several methods for mitering corners, but a common and effective approach involves folding the bias tape at a 45-degree angle.
- When you reach a corner, fold the bias tape upwards, away from the edge, creating a 45-degree angle. Press this fold firmly.
- Continue wrapping the bias tape around the corner, aligning it with the next edge.
- Stitch along the folded edge, securing the bias tape.
- On the right side of the fabric, you will see a diagonal line formed by the miter.
An alternative method involves creating a “mitered envelope” corner, which is particularly useful when binding a whole project, like a quilt. This method involves overlapping the bias tape at the corner and creating a clean fold.
Using Bias Tape as a Decorative Element
Bias tape’s inherent flexibility and the availability of various colors, patterns, and widths make it an excellent choice for adding decorative accents to sewing projects. It can be used to highlight seams, create Artikels, or form intricate design elements.
- Piping: Bias tape can be folded over a cord and stitched to create piping, which adds a raised, decorative edge to seams and cushions.
- Appliqué: Cut bias tape into shapes or strips and appliqué them onto fabric to create patterns, borders, or Artikels.
- Contrast Edging: Using a contrasting color or pattern of bias tape along a neckline, hem, or sleeve edge can add a pop of visual interest.
- Decorative Stitching: Applying bias tape in geometric patterns or freeform designs can transform a plain fabric into a unique piece.
The way bias tape is applied, whether flat or with a slight puff, can also contribute to its decorative effect. Experimenting with different widths and textures can yield a wide range of aesthetic outcomes.
Challenges and Solutions for Tricky Shapes
Working with bias tape on intricate or challenging shapes, such as sharp points, very tight curves, or complex three-dimensional forms, can present difficulties. However, with the right techniques, these challenges can be overcome.
- Sharp Points: For outward-pointing sharp corners, carefully fold the bias tape to create a sharp point, ensuring crisp folds. For inward-pointing sharp corners, you may need to make small snips in the bias tape’s seam allowance to allow it to lie flat without bunching.
- Tight Curves: For very tight curves, especially concave ones, making more frequent and smaller snips into the seam allowance of the bias tape is crucial. This allows the tape to hug the curve without pulling or creating pleats.
- Three-Dimensional Shapes: When applying bias tape to items with volume, like the rim of a hat or the edge of a gathered skirt, ease the bias tape gently. Avoid stretching it too tightly, which can distort the shape. Basting is highly recommended to secure the tape before stitching.
- Fabric Weight: Heavier fabrics may require a wider bias tape or a more robust method of attachment to ensure it lies smoothly. Conversely, very lightweight and delicate fabrics might require a narrower bias tape to avoid overwhelming the fabric.
A key solution for many tricky shapes is the use of basting stitches. This allows for adjustments and ensures the bias tape is positioned correctly before permanent stitching.
Bias Tape for Garment Closures
Bias tape is an excellent choice for creating neat and durable garment closures, particularly for button plackets. It provides a clean finish that can withstand repeated use and washing.A common application is the “continuous lap placket,” where bias tape is used to create a folded overlap for buttons. This method involves attaching a strip of bias tape to the fabric edge, folding it over, and stitching it down to create a finished edge that extends beyond the garment opening.
For button plackets, the bias tape is typically folded in half lengthwise and then attached to the raw edge of the garment opening. One side of the bias tape is stitched to the right side of the fabric, then folded to the wrong side and stitched again to create a clean, finished edge.
The width of the bias tape used for plackets will depend on the desired overlap and the size of the buttons. For a standard placket, a 1-inch wide bias tape (cut from a 2-inch strip) is often suitable. This creates a 1/2-inch finished overlap.
Tools and Notions for Bias Tape Work
Successfully creating and attaching bias tape requires a well-equipped sewing station. Having the right tools and notions not only makes the process more efficient but also significantly contributes to a polished and professional final result. From precise cutting to seamless attachment, each element plays a crucial role.This section will guide you through the essential tools and notions that will enhance your bias tape projects, ensuring both ease of use and a superior finish.
We’ll cover everything from cutting implements to specialized sewing machine feet and helpful accessories.
Cutting and Preparation Tools
Precise cutting is fundamental to creating bias tape that lies flat and fits your curves perfectly. The tools you use for this initial stage directly impact the quality of your final bias tape.Essential tools for cutting and preparing bias tape include:
- Rotary Cutter and Mat: A sharp rotary cutter, used in conjunction with a self-healing cutting mat, allows for swift and accurate cuts, especially when cutting multiple strips on the bias. The mat protects your work surface and provides a grid for precise measurements.
- Fabric Scissors: For smaller projects or when a rotary cutter isn’t practical, sharp fabric scissors are indispensable for cutting fabric to size before marking and cutting bias strips.
- Measuring Tape and Ruler: A flexible measuring tape is useful for measuring fabric lengths, while a long, clear ruler with precise markings is crucial for drawing straight lines on the bias and for accurate cutting. Quilting rulers with a 45-degree angle marking are particularly helpful for identifying the bias grain.
- Marking Tools: Tailor’s chalk, fabric pens, or erasable pencils are necessary for marking the cutting lines on your fabric, ensuring consistent strip widths.
Sewing Machine Feet for Attachment
While a standard presser foot can be used for attaching bias tape, specialized sewing machine feet can greatly simplify the process and produce more consistent results. These feet are designed to guide the fabric and bias tape in a way that achieves a neat finish.Recommendations for the best sewing machine feet for bias tape attachment include:
- Bias Tape Foot (Binder Foot): This is arguably the most specialized and helpful foot for bias tape. It has a channel that folds and guides the bias tape precisely as you sew, attaching it in one step. They come in various widths to accommodate different bias tape sizes.
- Edge Stitching Foot (Edge Guide Foot): While not exclusively for bias tape, this foot is excellent for achieving a consistent stitch line close to the edge of the folded bias tape when attaching it to a folded edge. The guide on the foot helps maintain an even seam allowance.
- Zipper Foot: In some instances, particularly when attaching bias tape very close to an edge, a zipper foot can provide the necessary clearance to get the needle close to the folded edge of the tape.
Bias Tape Makers
Bias tape makers are ingenious tools that simplify the process of creating continuous bias strips from fabric. They are available in various widths, allowing you to create bias tape perfectly suited for your project’s needs.The utility of bias tape makers and their different sizes is significant:
- A bias tape maker takes a strip of fabric and, as you pull it through, folds the edges inward to create a neat, double-folded bias tape ready for application. This eliminates the need for meticulous hand-folding or ironing.
- They are available in a range of sizes, typically from 1/4 inch to 2 inches or more. The size of the bias tape maker determines the finished width of the bias tape it produces. Choosing the correct size is important for matching the scale of your project and the desired aesthetic. For example, a 1/2 inch bias tape maker will produce a finished tape that is 1/2 inch wide after folding.
Helpful Notions for Application
Beyond the primary tools, several notions can significantly aid in the application of bias tape, making the process smoother and the results more professional.A list of helpful notions that aid in bias tape application includes:
- Wonder Clips or Binder Clips: These are excellent alternatives to pins, especially on curves or thick fabrics. They hold the bias tape securely in place without creating permanent holes or distorting the fabric.
- Basting Thread or Temporary Adhesive: For intricate areas or to ensure the bias tape lies perfectly flat before stitching, a few hand-basted stitches or a temporary fabric adhesive can be invaluable.
- Thread: Matching or contrasting thread in a good quality cotton or polyester blend is essential for securely attaching the bias tape.
- Needles: Ensure your sewing machine has a sharp, appropriate needle for your fabric type to avoid skipped stitches or fabric damage.
Pressing Tools for a Professional Finish
Pressing is an often-underestimated but critical step in bias tape work. Proper pressing ensures that the bias tape lies flat, conforms to curves, and creates crisp folds for a neat appearance.The role of pressing tools in achieving a professional bias tape finish cannot be overstated:
- Iron and Ironing Board: A good quality iron with adjustable heat settings and a steam function is paramount. An ironing board provides a stable, flat surface for effective pressing.
- Pressing Cloth: For delicate fabrics or when using high heat, a pressing cloth can protect the fabric from scorching or developing a shine.
- Tailor’s Ham or Sleeve Roll: These curved pressing tools are incredibly useful for pressing bias tape around curved edges, such as armholes or necklines. They allow the fabric to conform to the shape without distortion, ensuring a smooth application.
Outcome Summary
As we conclude our exploration of “How to Make and Attach Bias Tape,” you are now equipped with the knowledge and confidence to master this fundamental sewing skill. From the initial cut to the final stitch, you’ve learned how to transform simple fabric strips into elegant finishes that enhance the beauty and durability of your creations. Embrace these techniques to add a professional touch to every project, making your sewing endeavors even more rewarding.